collage with katheryn Winnick, emily blunt

Have you ever noticed how a particular sweater makes your skin look radiant and eyes well-rested, while another makes you look washed out, even if you have had a full night’s sleep? The secret rarely lies in your skincare routine (although it surely helps!) or the amount of coffee you drank – it usually lies in color theory. Yes, somewhere in between the color wheel and those elusive harmonies of shades. Does it sound familiar?

Of course, because color season analysis is all the rage right now! There is so much useful information you can find on this subject. But today's blog post will take you back to the basics, guiding you through the color palettes that most naturally harmonize with your skin tone, eye color, and hair color. The traditional and most foundational system relies on four distinct, classic seasons: Spring, Summer, Autumn, and Winter. The wider look at the theory suggests 12 types (categorizing each season by warm, bright, and light), but this is a subject for a whole new blog post!

Understanding which of these four traditional seasons you belong to can revolutionize how you shop, dress, and even apply makeup. It saves you time, prevents clutter in your wardrobe, and effortlessly elevates your style by ensuring the colors you wear are working for you, not against you.

The Origins of the Color Analysis

The foundational theory behind seasonal color analysis was first developed in the 1920s by Johannes Itten, a Swiss expressionist painter and instructor at the renowned Bauhaus school of art in Germany.  Realizing that certain groups of colors harmonized beautifully with specific physical traits while clashing with others, Itten formally organized these colors into four distinct palettes based on the four seasons – Spring, Summer, Autumn, and Winter. Later pioneers, like Suzanne Caygill and Carole Jackson, eventually adapted his artistic principles into the personal styling and fashion framework we use today.

Color Seasons Foundations: Undertone and Contrast

Before diving into the four seasons, it is crucial to understand the two fundamental pillars that define them: undertone and contrast. Just like with the makeup foundation, these two characteristics will help you to determine the best route for your complexion and hair color.

  • Your skin's undertone is a very subtle hue beneath its surface. It never changes, regardless of a summer tan or a winter paleness. Undertones are generally categorized as warm (golden, peachy, or yellow), cool (pink, red, or bluish), or neutral (a mix of both). An easy way to determine your undertone is to look at the color of the veins on the inside of your wrist in natural light. If they appear greenish, you likely have warm undertones. If they appear bluish or purple, you likely have cool undertones.
  • The second pillar is contrast, which refers to the visual difference in darkness or lightness between your hair, skin, and eyes. High contrast means there is a striking difference (for example, very dark hair paired with pale skin), while low contrast indicates that your hair, skin, and eyes blend together more seamlessly (such as light blonde hair and fair skin, or dark hair and deep skin).

How to Color-Analyze Yourself

The four main colors combine these two factors, creating the so-called seasons: Spring is warm and light, Summer is cool and light, Autumn is warm and deep, and Winter is cool and deep. So, to determine your color season, you'll need to analyse your features. Remove your makeup and let your hair down. Choose something neutral; it’s best to have two outfits ready: one light and one dark. Ensure your clothing doesn't distract from your natural look.

Ellie-Jean Royden, in her video ''How to Find Your Colour Season'' suggests analyzing your natural features: ''Nothing that's dyed, you want to look at yourself in natural light.''

spring season color palette

Spring (Warm, Light & Bright)

Let's begin with the Spring color season, always young and youthful, which is characterized by warm undertones and a bright, clear, and generally light overall appearance. People in the Spring category often have hair with natural golden or red tones – ranging from strawberry blonde and golden blonde to light auburn and warm brown. Their skin usually has a peachy or creamy ivory glow, and their eyes are clear and bright, often in shades of blue, green, hazel, or warm light brown.

The Spring color palette can be described as fresh, vivid, and lively, perfectly resembling its name and the awakening of nature from slumber. If you are a Spring, your best colors are those that look as though they are brightened up from the inside with warm sunlight.


  • Best Colors: Coral, peach, golden yellow, bright apple green, warm aqua, clear turquoise, and warm cream.
  • Colors to Avoid: Heavy, dark, and muted colors like harsh, stark black, charcoal, and dusty leaden blues, which can easily overwhelm this delicate, radiant coloring.
  • Famous Spring Examples: Nicole Kidman, Kerry Washington, Blake Lively, Amy Adams, Zoe Saldana, and Taylor Swift. 
summer season color palette

Summer (Cool, Light & Soft)

Despite what the heat of the season might suggest, the Summer color palette is entirely cool-toned, soft, and even muted. Summer types have cool, pink, or bluish undertones to their skin. Their hair typically lacks any golden or red highlights, ranging instead from ash blonde to medium greyish-brown. Summer's eyes are usually soft and cool, such as grayish-blue, cool green, or slate brown. There is generally a low to medium contrast between their features.

The Summer color palette is elegant, understated, and calming. It is filled with true, clear colors, soft pastels, and muted tones that look as if they have a gentle touch of gray mixed into them (think watercolor painting).


  • Best Colors: Soft dusty rose, lavender, powder blue, sage green, slate gray, and muted navy. Soft white or off-white is much more flattering than a pure, crisp white.
  • Colors to Avoid: Intense neon brights and heavy, warm earth tones like mustard, rust, or orange. These clash violently with a cool, delicate complexion and can make the skin appear sallow or gray.
  • Famous Summer Examples: Reese Witherspoon, Rihanna, Emily Blunt, Cate Blanchett, Rosario Dawson, and Margot Robbie.
autumn season color palette

Autumn (Warm, Bright & Dark)

Now, let's take a look at the romantic Autumn season. It is as rich and warm as it is earthy and cozy! The Autumn color season shares the warm, golden undertones of Spring, but its overall coloring is noticeably deeper, more muted, and richer. Hair colors for Autumns range from rich golden brown and fiery red to deep chestnut and auburn. The skin tones can range from warm ivory to deep bronze or golden brown, and their eyes are typically rich shades of dark brown, olive green, warm hazel, or amber with visible warm tones.


  • Best Colors: Rust, burnt orange, mustard yellow, olive green, deep terracotta, and warm chocolate brown. When it comes to neutrals, warm beige, camel, and deep brown are vastly superior to stark black.
  • Colors to Avoid: Icy pastels, stark white, and vivid, cool-toned brights like fuchsia or royal blue. These shades will drain the golden warmth right out of an Autumn's face.
  • Famous Autumn Examples: Julia Roberts, Zendaya, Julianne Moore, Beyoncé, Halle Berry, Michelle Obama, and Padma Lakshmi.

winter season color palette

Winter (Cool, Bright & Dark)

And, lastly, the winter season! Just like real winter weather, this season is all about striking contrasts and deep, cool intensity. Winters have cool, bluish, or pink undertones. What truly sets a Winter apart is the high visual contrast. This often manifests as very dark hair (ranging from dark ash brown to jet black) paired with either very pale, porcelain skin or deep, cool-toned dark skin. Winter eyes are usually intense and piercing, ranging from icy blue and clear green to deep, cool brown or nearly black.

Because their natural coloring is so vivid and contrasting, Winters are the only season that can effortlessly pull off stark, pure black and crisp, snow-white without looking washed out.


  • Best Colors: True, intense, icy, and highly saturated cool tones. Jewel tones are a Winter’s best friend – emerald green, sapphire blue, ruby red, and deep amethyst. Bold, primary colors also look absolutely spectacular.
  • Colors to Avoid: Warm, earthy, and muted tones like golden brown, orange, peach, and muddy yellows. These will blur a Winter's striking natural contrast and leave them looking tired or aged.
  • Famous Winter Examples: Anne Hathaway, Megan Fox, Lupita Nyong'o, Courteney Cox, Viola Davis, Lucy Liu, and Janelle Monáe.

Why Follow Celebrities' Style When It Comes to Seasonal Analysis?

Let’s be real: trying to decode seasonal trends straight from the runway is like trying to learn a new language by reading abstract poetry. Why not take a shortcut and learn from the pros instead?

Think of celebrities and their high-paid stylists as your personal style mentors. I’m not talking about those avant-garde Met Gala costumes; I’m talking about their day-to-day street style. These looks show us exactly how seasonal silhouettes move, crease, and function in the real world.

The secret is to find a celebrity who shares your color season and has a similar body type or height. When you see a specific aesthetic popping up on three different icons, you know it’s a safe bet. Once you’ve spotted a winning look, you can confidently adopt the color, cut, and flow into your own capsule wardrobe.

Summing up...

Discovering your color season is not about restricting your wardrobe; it is about finding the specific shade of a color that works for you. For instance, everyone can wear red – a Spring looks best in a warm, bright poppy red, a Summer thrives in a soft raspberry, an Autumn glows in a rich rust-red, and a Winter dominates in a bold, cool-toned ruby or cherry red. And, please, keep in mind that all of this is subjective. You can have a blend of a few contradicting features and still look fantastic!

If you have beloved clothing items that do not fit your season, you do not need to throw them away. The most important area to wear your seasonal colors is close to your face (shirts, scarves, hats, and necklaces). You can safely wear the so-called "wrong" colors on your lower half via trousers, skirts, or shoes, as they will not reflect onto your complexion.

*What to read on the topic:

- The Elements of Color: A Treatise on the Color System of Johannes Itten Based on His Book the Art of Color
- Colour Me Beautiful by Carole Jackson
- Color: The Essence of You by Suzanne Caygill